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    ogy of grading. For example, the very first thing you need to know is the ‘obverse’ of the coin, which refers to the face and the ‘reverse’ of the coin which refers to the back. Attention should
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    If you are into collecting coins, then you need to know how to grade coins as well. You’ll find it’s both an art and a science and if you’re keen on coins, you’ll find that this knowledge proves to be very helpful even if you are not really looking to becoming an expert in this field. At least it will make sure that you never get cheated.

    What are grades? Well, in the 1950s, a man called Sheldon developed a system of grading from 1 to 70. Over the years, this has been revised, expanded, adapted and earlier definitions like Poor, Fine, Fair, Mint State, Uncirculated, etc have now been combined with numbers.

    Where should you begin? Well, start with your own coins – that will be where you can build up experience. You need to familiarize yourself with the terminology of grading. For example, the very first thing you need to know is the ‘obverse’ of the coin, which refers to the face and the ‘reverse’ of the coin which refers to the back. Attention should b

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    to be very helpful even if you are not really looking to becoming an expert in this field. At least it will make sure that you never get cheated.

    What are grades? Well, in the 1950s, a man called Sheldon developed a system of grading from 1 to 70. Over the years, this has been revised, expanded, adapted and earlier definitions like Poor, Fine, Fair, Mint State, Uncirculated, etc have now been combined with numbers.

    Where should you begin? Well, start with your own coins – that will be where you can build up experience. You need to familiarize yourself with the terminology of grading. For example, the very first thing you need to know is the ‘obverse’ of the coin, which refers to the face and the ‘reverse’ of the coin which refers to the back. Attention should

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    alled Sheldon developed a system of grading from 1 to 70. Over the years, this has been revised, expanded, adapted and earlier definitions like Poor, Fine, Fair, Mint State, Uncirculated, etc have now been combined with numbers.

    Where should you begin? Well, start with your own coins – that will be where you can build up experience. You need to familiarize yourself with the terminology of grading. For example, the very first thing you need to know is the ‘obverse’ of the coin, which refers to the face and the ‘reverse’ of the coin which refers to the back. Attention should

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    e now been combined with numbers.

    Where should you begin? Well, start with your own coins – that will be where you can build up experience. You need to familiarize yourself with the terminology of grading. For example, the very first thing you need to know is the ‘obverse’ of the coin, which refers to the face and the ‘reverse’ of the coin which refers to the back. Attention should

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    ogy of grading. For example, the very first thing you need to know is the ‘obverse’ of the coin, which refers to the face and the ‘reverse’ of the coin which refers to the back. Attention should be paid to the lettering which refers to both the letters and the numbers as well as the devices which refer to the buildings, faces, laurel wreaths, etc. You should also look for the ‘wear’ and the ‘luster’ as well as if any ‘damage to the rim’ has occurred.

    Let’s look at the Winged Liberty Head Dime as an example. There was one that was minted in 1941 which was 10% copper and 90% silver. Now these metals can very easily be identified and the quantities too, measured. So simple tests could tell you if it is a fake or not. Now look at the back or the obverse. You’ll find that there’s a lot of detail in the hair on the face at the back. If this is well defined, then you could probably classify it as EF or Extra Fine or maybe even Uncirculated. On the wing, the feather

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